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Deshalb schrieb ich ja oben "Seriensupra" und Serienmotor :D ich weiß schon warum ich das dazu genommen hab *G*

Wie erwähnt hatten die Gruppe A Supras ja auch ne andere Ölwanne (die extrem gesucht ist) aus Magnesium mit Prallwänden.

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Also bei mir herscht im System eigentlich immer Zeigerbreite unter 4. Also zumindestens zwischen Halb bis Voll. Da drunter geht beim Beschleunigen der Öldruck runter. Ist mir aber bis jetzt nur zweimal passiert.

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Quatsch hab das genauso gemacht immer mehr rein als muß,bei mir hat nie was im Öl gepatscht,halber mehr ist besser als einer weniger

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Woher willst wissen, dass da nix gepatscht hat? Reinschauen ist ja nicht ;)

Das Ding hat voll zu sein, nicht drunter und auch nicht drüber :form:

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Ich hab das im Netz gefunden. Sieht recht sinnvoll aus. Werde das mal checken lassen.:

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so 'nen crank scraper hab ich auch mal vor ein paar jahren gekauft, nur bis heute nicht eingebaut :weird: :D

edit:
siehe auch:
http://www.crank-scrapers.com/What%2...k-scraper.html

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Zum Tank und Sprit:

es gibt da so Alu Kügelchen aus dem Rennsport. Die nehmen etwa 3% des Tankinhalts weg, verhindern aber das Rumgeschwappe. werde ich mir wohl gönnen, bzw mal ne Tonne mitnehmen :D Das hat da ja genug rumzuliegen ;)

Ein Freund von mir meinte, es würde sich stark bemerkbar machen.

PS: Sportwagen tankt man nie voll, sondern nur 3/4tel, es sei denn man fährt normal.

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Hast PN gleich
Easymoney

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Why haven't you installed it yet? :)

I apologize for writing in English -- I can understand a lot of German but never had enough opportunity to write it.

[Ich mache diese "crank-scrapers"]

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The Toyota M-series engines (and some others) have oil pickups that are quite high off the floor of the pan. When you go quickly around a turn there is an angle generated by the vector sum of gravity and lateral acceleration. This creates a fluid surface which has the possibility of letting air go into the the pickup tube.

Ford Motorsports recommends 6.35mm to 9.525mm for this distance. A racer in Australia measured it for the 4AGE and it was about 25mm (!!).

So, this is something you should investigate for your engine. It is easy to do with modeling clay.

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I am curious. Actually, i am really interested in your product, due to my need for speed on track :)

What about the sideparts of this product? if you take a closer look at the oil pan or the area where the scraper is installed, you will notice some grease at the sides were the oilpan is to be mounted.



Is this space simply filled with grease in order to prevent oil leaking out from the pan?

Or do you get some additional spacers left and right?

Acording to my point of view, if this space is simply filled out with grease or anything "out of the box" in order to stop the oilpan from leaking, it has to be doubted that after a couple of mileage the pan will still stay dry at the outside.

Do you have any experience with that?

Best Regards.

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Yes, the picture is of the first 6M scraper that I made. I borrowed the motor from a local owner. The "grease" is old RTV silicone gasket maker.

The older scrapers were 2.5mm thick and so you would need to use enough RTV to fill in the end areas. This is not a problem for high quality RTV such as Permatex Ultra Black, which is guarateed not to leak.* But you must be careful to let the RTV fully cure (24 hours), particularly with a turbo engine which often develops a positive pressure in the crankcase. It is also important to have very clean surfaces. I have a list of tips for using RTV if you would like it.

The current scrapers for the M-series are about 1.25mm thick (.050") so this is less of an issue. I started making the scrapers thinner because people (Toyota M-series owners) were concerned about this. Most of the other scrapers that I make are 1.5mm or 2mm thick. There are many, many thousands of them in use around the world.

The scrapers work very well in racing -- I can assure you of that. Actually the technology is very well known to automotive engineers. Toyota uses small scrapers in the windage tray for the 4AGE -- so that's 20 years ago. The technology is common but comes in many different designs so you have to recognize it.

I have spoken to a number of automotive engineers and often they tell about products they have designed for the oil pan but that were not included in the engine because they were considered too expensive to make. Schade.


*RTV silicone gasket maker has been made for many years now and there are old formulas which do not seal as well. I suggest getting the most modern product with formulas which are guranteed not to leak. I am sure there are many excellent German products in this regard.

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It varies from engine to engine but typically about 1-2 liters of oil are moving through the engine while it is running.

If you look at a used oil pan you can often see a mark or line around the perimeter. If you pour measured water into the pan to this line you can determine how much oil is normally present. This lowered level is also why the depth of the pickup tube can be a concern.

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Don't worry about writing in English, German is not exactly an easy language after all and actually quite a few people here will understand you anyway. Nice to see you around here, that's what I call "customer relationship management" :top: :D
As for installing the crank scraper, I just never got around to it. I was planning on completely rebuilding my engine, but in the end time and finances wouldn't allow it. My MKIII project is currently suspended and I'll be focusing on my Mitsu Starion first. I already noticed you're also offering crank scrapers for the 4G64/G64B engine, so I'll probably get in touch with you again sometime ;)